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Han i\u00e7indeki avlu, yap\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7\u00f6zmeyi zorla\u015ft\u0131ran \u015fekilde ba\u015fka minik avlu ve tenha sokaklara a\u00e7\u0131l\u0131yor<\/p><\/div>\n
Han\u2019\u0131n giri\u015finin haritadaki yer oldu\u011funa inanmak biraz g\u00fc\u00e7, zira ta\u015f kement giri\u015fin \u00fcst\u00fcne oyulmu\u015f harflerle yaz\u0131l\u0131 “B\u00fcy\u00fck Valide Han” uzaktan hi\u00e7 dikkat \u00e7ekmiyor, han\u0131n i\u00e7i ise ku\u015f u\u00e7maz kervan ge\u00e7mez bir havada. Soka\u011f\u0131 bir iki tavaf edip bir d\u00fckkan sahibinden de teyit al\u0131nca han\u0131n kap\u0131s\u0131ndan girdim.
\nB\u00fcy\u00fck Valide Han 17. Yy\u2019da K\u00f6sem Sultan taraf\u0131ndan yapt\u0131r\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. Eskiden sadece at\u00f6lyeler de\u011fil konaklama i\u00e7in kervansaray bile varm\u0131\u015f bu handa. Tabi ekonominin \u00e7ark\u0131 de\u011fi\u015fince buran\u0131n trafi\u011fi zamanla solmu\u015f. Yak\u0131n zamanda ise kubbesinde enfes bir \u0130stanbul manzaras\u0131 oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in foto\u011fraf noktas\u0131 olarak \u00fcnlenmi\u015fti, ben de gitmeden \u00f6\u011frendi\u011fim \u00fczere eski han\u0131n \u00e7at\u0131s\u0131na \u00e7ok say\u0131da insan\u0131n \u00e7\u0131kmas\u0131ndan m\u00fctevellit bir onar\u0131m ve restorasyona gidilmi\u015f. O y\u00fczden \u015fu ana kadar o \u00e7at\u0131da hoplamal\u0131 foto\u011fraf \u00e7ekinen \u00e7ekindi, \u00e7ekinmeyen de restorasyonu bekleyecek.
\n\u0130yi ki tepesine \u00e7\u0131k\u0131\u015f yasaklanm\u0131\u015f da buralar\u0131 ke\u015ffettim dedi\u011fim gezime, civardaki bir iki insan\u0131n y\u00f6nlendirdi\u011fi kementlerden ba\u015flad\u0131m. Han, yap\u0131s\u0131n\u0131 ku\u015fbak\u0131\u015f\u0131 incelemeden anlayamayaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131z \u015fekilde bir avluyu \u00e7evreliyor. Avlunun i\u00e7i; terk edilmi\u015f kasabalar kadar tenha, k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck ah\u015fap evlerle dolu. Benim gibi kameras\u0131yla i\u00e7eri giren bir iki ki\u015fiden ayr\u0131lmak isteyip ta\u015f merdivenle karanl\u0131k han koridoruna \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131m.<\/p>\n
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![\"\"](\"http:\/\/www.bengusuozcan.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/i\u00e7i-bir-300x203.png\")
B\u00fcy\u00fck Valide Han’\u0131n i\u00e7inde hala hayat olan d\u00fckkanlar\u0131ndan biri<\/p><\/div>\n
Her ne kada turistik olarak de\u011feri artsa da inan\u0131lmaz bir terk edilmi\u015flik var han\u0131n her yerinde. Sa\u011fda solda k\u00fcl\u00fcst\u00fcr sandalyeler, naylon po\u015fetler, yere d\u00fc\u015fm\u00fc\u015f trafolar\u2026 Bu kadar ke\u015fmeke\u015fin arkas\u0131ndaysa renkli ah\u015fap kap\u0131lar\u0131n, i\u015flemeleri, pencerelerin ard\u0131nda y\u00fckselen Orhan Gencebay sesleriyle i\u015f yapan cam ustalar\u0131, masas\u0131na e\u011filmi\u015f oymac\u0131lar \u00e7\u0131k\u0131nca kar\u015f\u0131ma biraz bocalay\u0131p kendimi bir gizemi aralamak i\u00e7in yola d\u00fc\u015f\u00fclen macera filmlerinde gibi hissettim Bir yandan batmakta olan g\u00fcne\u015f pencerelerden koridora nefis h\u00fczmeler g\u00f6nderiyor, bir taratan o h\u00fczmelerin alt\u0131nda kalan koridor boyu i\u015fleyen bir iki d\u00fckkanda ustalar\u0131n \u00e7eki\u00e7lerinin sesi kula\u011f\u0131n\u0131za vuruyor. “Tam da \u0130stanbul\u2019a yara\u015f\u0131r bir yer i\u015fte bura! “dedim kendi kendime. Yer yer terk edilmi\u015f ama elden ayaktan d\u00fc\u015fmemi\u015f!
\nBiraz daha ilerlerken bir erkek sesi duyuyorum koridorun ucundan:”\u00c7at\u0131 kapal\u0131 ama manzaraya bakacaksan\u0131z balkonumuzdan bakabilirsiniz!” K\u00fc\u00e7\u00fcc\u00fck bir odada \u015f\u00f6minenin etraf\u0131na \u00fc\u00e7 koltuk, el kadar balkona da bir sandalye at\u0131p \u00e7ay oca\u011f\u0131na dev\u015firilmi\u015f k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck d\u00fckkana girdim. Gen\u00e7 adam tezcanl\u0131l\u0131kla balkona \u00e7\u0131kard\u0131 beni, sonra kendi arkada\u015f\u0131yla g\u00fcr\u00fclt\u00fcleri gelmesin diye kap\u0131y\u0131 usulca kapatt\u0131. Birka\u00e7 insan\u0131n daha geldi\u011fini duydum manzaraya dalm\u0131\u015fken, gen\u00e7 adam usulca balkona \u00e7\u0131k\u0131p \u2018abla siz sandalyeye oturun yerinizi kapt\u0131rmay\u0131n\u2019 dedi. Bir \u00e7ay istedimben de g\u00fcl\u00fcmseyerek. Sahiden balkona \u015f\u00f6yle bir girip gerisingeri \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131 ekip beni k\u00f6\u015feye kurulmu\u015f bulunca. Ben de \u00e7ay\u0131m\u0131 i\u00e7erek kald\u0131\u011f\u0131m yerden manzaraya dalmaya devam ettim.<\/p>\n
![\"\"](\"http:\/\/www.bengusuozcan.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/01\/genel.png\")
\u00c7ay oca\u011f\u0131n\u0131n balkonundan tarihi yar\u0131m ada<\/p><\/div>\n
Valide Han\u2019\u0131n manzaras\u0131, \u0130stanbullunun \u0130stanbul\u2019u nas\u0131l ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131n en g\u00fczel portrelerinden biri. Manzaran\u0131n neredeyse tamam\u0131 plans\u0131z, ye\u015filli\u011fe hasret, eski evlerle bezenmi\u015f tarihi yar\u0131maday\u0131; bir b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc trafikle kesilmi\u015f Hali\u00e7’i ve birka\u00e7 b\u00fcy\u00fck camiyi, ucundan k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131ndan k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fcc\u00fck bir b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc ise vapurlar\u0131n ku\u011fu gibi sal\u0131nd\u0131\u011f\u0131 Bo\u011faz K\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fc’n\u00fc g\u00f6steriyor. Hayat\u0131n\u0131n \u00e7o\u011funu trafi\u011fin, betonun, pahal\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131n, stresin aras\u0131nda ge\u00e7irip yine de arada bir Bo\u011faz manzaras\u0131nda nefes al\u0131nca \u015fehrin huysuz ve tatl\u0131 kad\u0131n oldu\u011funa karar verdi\u011fimiz d\u00f6ng\u00fcy\u00fc daha iyi hangi manzara anlatabilirdi, bilmiyorum.
\nB\u00fcy\u00fck Valide Han’\u0131n restorasyonu ne zaman bitecek, benim konu\u015ftu\u011fum \u00fc\u00e7 be\u015f d\u00fckkan sahibi bilmiyor. Yine de bence bu tenha haliyle ke\u015ffetmesi \u00e7ok daha cazip bir yer. G\u00fcne\u015fli g\u00fcnler tekrar gelirse, ge\u00e7ici s\u00fcreli\u011fine ate\u015fkes imzalad\u0131\u011f\u0131m Eski \u0130stanbul\u2019a yeni turlar i\u00e7in tavsiyelerinizi beklerim.<\/p>\n
Sevgiler,<\/p>\n
Beng\u00fcsu<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
\u0130stanbul \u00fczerine yaz\u0131lm\u0131\u015f ne kadar \u015fiir, \u015fark\u0131, kitap d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcrsem d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcneyim hep bir \u00e7eli\u015fki hissediyorum dilimin ucunda. G\u00fczel ama kaotik, zengin ama horg\u00f6r\u00fclm\u00fc\u015f, gen\u00e7 ama ya\u015fl\u0131 bir \u015fehir \u0130stanbul. B\u00f6yle olunca hal, hep bir ikinci \u015fans veresi geliyor belki de insan\u0131n bu \u015fehre. Nefret etse de onu tekrar sevmeyi, terk etse de ona geri d\u00f6nmeyi \u00f6\u011freniyor. Ge\u00e7enlerde uzun zaman sonra ilk kez bir foto\u011fraf konferans\u0131na kat\u0131ld\u0131m, \u00e7e\u015fitli ki\u015fisel m\u00fclahazalar\u0131m sonucu ara verece\u011fim diye karar ald\u0131\u011f\u0131m foto\u011frafa geri d\u00f6nme arzusu hissettim. Bu geri d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f m\u00fc \u00e7a\u011fr\u0131\u015f\u0131m yapt\u0131 yoksa zaten fazla alternatif mi yoktu akl\u0131ma gelen bilmiyorum ama k\u00fcresel \u0131s\u0131nan \u0130stanbul’un g\u00fcne\u015fli bir haftasonunda kalk\u0131p Sirkeci\u2019ye, B\u00fcy\u00fck Valide Han\u2019a gittim. “Sirkeci, Sirkeci olal\u0131 zaten b\u00f6yle kalabal\u0131ksa vay haline!” dedim i\u00e7imden. Valide Han\u2019\u0131 bulmak i\u00e7in tramvaydan \u00e7\u0131k\u0131nca hi\u00e7 bilmedi\u011fim \u00e7ar\u015f\u0131lardan, hi\u00e7 girmedi\u011fim dar sokaklardan ge\u00e7mem gerekti. Envayi \u00e7e\u015fit \u00e7eyizciyi, d\u00f6nerciyi arkada b\u0131rak\u0131p sa\u011fl\u0131 sollu eski hanlar\u0131n aras\u0131nda yoku\u015f yukar\u0131 t\u0131rmanmaya ba\u015flad\u0131m. Benim i\u00e7in Fatih, \u00f6yle her \u00e7e\u015fit de\u011fil tek \u00e7e\u015fit insana rastlayabilece\u011fim bir yerdir. Foto\u011fraf \u00e7ekmeye \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131mda, normalde ne kadar \u00f6zg\u00fcr sanat diye ba\u011f\u0131r\u0131yorsam bir o kadar p\u0131s\u0131r\u0131kla\u015f\u0131r\u0131m bir yurdum insan\u0131 ile polemi\u011fe girmekten. Bu defa o gerginli\u011fim vuku bulmad\u0131. Zira tenha soka\u011f\u0131nda da kalabal\u0131k \u00e7ar\u015f\u0131s\u0131nda da giyimi ku\u015fam\u0131 her t\u00fcrden insan g\u00f6rmek beni […]<\/p>","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":943,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_stc_notifier_status":"sent","_stc_notifier_sent_time":"2023-05-09 00:46:00","_stc_notifier_request":false,"_stc_notifier_prevent":false,"_stc_subscriber_keywords":"","_stc_subscriber_search_areas":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[2],"tags":[92,97,94,91,95,96,93],"class_list":["post-942","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-travel","tag-buyuk-valide-han","tag-eski-istanbul","tag-fotografcilik","tag-istanbul","tag-osmanli-carsisi","tag-osmanli-hanlari","tag-tarihi-yarim-ada"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.bengusuozcan.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/942"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.bengusuozcan.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.bengusuozcan.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.bengusuozcan.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.bengusuozcan.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=942"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.bengusuozcan.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/942\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":947,"href":"https:\/\/www.bengusuozcan.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/942\/revisions\/947"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.bengusuozcan.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/943"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.bengusuozcan.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=942"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.bengusuozcan.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=942"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.bengusuozcan.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=942"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}